Me inside a Blackbird at the Museum of Flight yesterday
Having spent two days walking the length and breadth of Seattle, I'm now in a better position to comment on it. My most resounding impression of this fair city is that it is full of crazies. Yes, there are more crazy street people here than in any other city I have been in. Today, at the 'Experience Music Project' (museum of music), the young guy working behind the counter told us that there are two possible factors which may contribute to this fact: -(1) The fair climate - far easier to be sleeping rough when the weather is good
(2) Heroin - which (he claims) is fairly prevalent.
Judging from the state of this dazed and confused lot (most of which wear ear phones for some strange reason), I'd say it's a good example of why kids should just say no.
Seriously though, just getting from one point to another you encounter at least three of these lost souls who look as though they are talking to god or their inner demons. And even those people who live an work here (who don't have any visible mental health issues) dress strangely and have a rather odd manner. It's like their are some strong pharmaceuticals in the water. Or then again, perhaps the whole thing is largely due to this being the home of Starbucks. All that caffiene - another reminder why I don't drink coffee.
Yesterday we headed past all the crazies to Pike Place market - and what an exciting time we had. It was the Seattle Cheese Festival! OK, so not exactly fun, but as both Robert and I like to cook, it was a wonderful market. Fresh fish, meat, baked goods, cheese, fruit and veg that spanned an entire warehouse. Also, an abundance of luscious fresh flowers. Roberts' mother, Jacky, would have loved it. You can imagine going to such a place on a Saturday morning and stocking up for a dinner party. A veritible Babette's Feast - wonderful.
After the market (lots of weird store owners who could quite possibly pass for crazies), we headed off to the aquarium. If you visit Seattle and have children, do visit this place. They have a fantastic exhibition where kids can actually touch some of the sea creatures, like star fish and sea cucumbers. Then there's the salmon tunnel, where the salmon return to each season to lay their eggs. Robert told me that these fish will always return to the place of their birth (swimming up-stream and impressively far distances), so that they can spawn.
If you are into jumping dolphins and killer whales, then this is not the place for you. They do however have an amazing collection of fish, some sharks and even birds, and for the kids it's good fun. There's also an IMAX theatre where we saw a film about underwater life, which was OK - though nothing mind blowing.
We took in a bit of shopping in the afternoon and I treated myself to a beautiful pair of Versace sunglasses. I know, I know, I really shouldn't be spending money like that, but they are so cute!
The museum of flight is also a must-see for aviation ethusiasts. The highlights of which were getting to walk around in Airforce One (the one which Kennedy and Eisenhower used), and one of the Concorde's. These were both the actual planes, and in the case of Airforce One especially, it felt thrilling to be on a craft which carried such great historical figures. Among other things we got to see the Presidential conference area, and the safes where the nuclear initiation codes where kept, just in case things got a bit nasty while the president was jetting off somewhere. Naturally I had to pose at the entrance of the plane for a Jacky O' type wave.
We also got to fly a fighter plane in a flight simulator (Robert flying, me gunning). We were a bit confused as to why the assistant told us to remove any loose change from our pockets, until we were inside that is. Those babies turn almost all the way round when you do a loop the loop. You could here the screams of women coming from inside as their boyfriends played TopGun. We also got to sit inside a Blackbird, which is the fastest plane in the world. Cool!
Last night we ate in what Zagat considers to be the best restaurant in Seattle - the Mistral. If you don't keep an eye out for the signage, you could easily miss it because it doesn't resemble a restaurant from the outside at all. In fact, it has these sort of silky green curtains behind the windows, making it look a bit like a disused hat shop from the 40's, and we nearly turned around because of it's sinister external appearance. Inside however, it was perfectly pleasant, though very basic; tables covered in white table clothes, walls with one or two art works - nothing fancy, and rather plain actually.
Ah, but the food. Now I have to say this and I hope you forgive me for sounding ostentatious, but it is relevant to what I am about to say. Robert and I have eaten in many cities around the world, and in some of the best rated restaurants in these cities. After eating in the Mistral, we both consider it to be one of the best dining experiences we have ever had. I know, who would have thought this strange plain little place (seats around 35) would be so good? Well, aside from the Zagat review that is.
You choose from three different tasting menus, which vary in size (amount of courses) and a price difference of between 25 and 30 dollars. The cheapest one is approximately 80 dollars, which is 40 pounds - not very much for eight courses at a top notch restaurant.
We had the seasonal menu, which meant that the chef prepared (at his discretion) a variety of treats for us, each of which was simply mind-blowingly delicious. We also had the corresponding wine tasting menu, which blew my adjectives. On the subject of wine, our sommelier became progressively inebriated throughout the evening which meant that we got progressively fuller glasses of wine. By the time he poured the port with our dessert, our glasses were full to the brim with a bit splashed on the white cloth for good measure. As pissed as he was, he was a good man and knew his stuff, though admittedly, was able to communicate this extensive knowledge a bit more cohesively at the beginning of the evening. Through it all, he hopped from one foot to the other as though he needed the loo, or ADHD medication.
The rest of the staff were attentive and friendly without the stuffiness one comes to expect in places of this caliber, and unless they were hiding it well, not in the least bit as drunk as our wine chap.
A brief summary of what we had: Amuse bouche with fresh prawns; asparagus and pumpkin foam soup with a delicious seared scallop (delicious, delicious, delicious); wild halibut; fois gras (served with a glass of beautifully sweet Sautrnes); rack of lamb (hmmm); cheese selection; pineapple sorbet with grapefruit; semi-freddo and icecream.
Eight courses. It sounds like a hell of a lot, but bear in mind that these were all small and perfectly-formed dishes, each one designed to compliment those on either side of it. We left there knowing that if we are in town again, we will certainly return.
If you visit Seattle, please, do yourself a favour and visit the Mistral - you won't be disappointed. (And no, they are not paying me for this review, though considering how good the food is, I am open to a bribe!)
Source: pickup-and-love.blogspot.com
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